Hey everyone! It’s been a while since I’ve posted a “How-to-Tuesday” so I figured now is a great time as I’ve been meaning to post a beauty how-to on getting great brows. Here’s an interesting new study I read at work the other day: volenteers were asked to identify 50 famous people through pictures that were digititally altered by either removing the eyes or removing the eyebrows. The verdict: group members were able to identify 60% of the people without eyes and only 46% of the people without eyebrows.
“They” have always said that the eyes are the key to one’s soul but it’s looking like maybe it’s the eyebrows? There’s this theory that your eyes read a face in a “bar-code manner” which identifies the contrast of your lighter forehead from darker eyebrows then lighter nose/cheek area, followed by the darker lip color. The theory is that when you take out the eyebrows you’ll lose the distinction of your face. Also, eyebrows have also been suggested the most suggestive part of your face, as you furrow, raise, ect.
That’s all just some fun facts though. Eye brows have always been linked with fashion and makeup, the strength of a bold brow in the 80’s (and now), the femininity of a curved eyebrow in the 50’s… Really brows can be linked with a particular time period as much as a single person.
Right now we’re all about the bold brow. In fact, it’s considered a look you can play up as easily as the eyes, cheeks, or lips. Here are some tips on how to get the perfect brow… for now
First one must determine your face shape.
- Oval: characterized by a forehead wider than the chin with defined cheek bones, this face will taper naturally from your forehead to your chin.
Brows Recommended: Because this face shape is pretty naturally symmetrical, you do not need to use the brows to further define your features. This face shape allows you to play with your brows a bit as there are few rules to adhere to. Try the soft angled shape (which is defined, but kept rounded with your choice of low, medium, or high arch) or thick brows. Those with small eyes can have low arches and those with big eyes should have high eyebrows. No matter how “ideal” this face shape is, you should not make brows too thin or arches too high as they can apppear sharp and severe.
2. Round: Characterized by any face that is as wide as it is long with the widest part being at your cheeks.
Brows Recommended: You’ll want to make your face appear longer (making it look less round). You can do this with a high arched brow (one follows a straight line to the peak of the brow, and creates more vertical lines). High, sharp, angles look best so avoid any rounded brow looks.
3. Square: Characterized by a face that has a squared jawline, also the forehead, cheekbones, and jawline are all the same width.
Brows Recommended: For this face shape you should go strong, long, thick, and dark. The contrast of thicker, longer, darker brows will balance out (and draw attention away from) a strong jaw.
4. Long: This face shape is characterized as having the forehead, cheekbones, and jawline all about the same width, with the jawline gradually tapering to a narrow oval chin.
Brows Recommended: a strong horizontal line will make the face appear shorter in a good way. Focus on extending the length of your brows from left to right. You can get away with a high or a low arch, but be sure the brow is long enough. This face shape is not meant to have a super filled-in brow which can appear too heavy, go light this time.
5. Heart: A heart shape is characterized by, well, looking like a heart. It will be similar to an oval face with a more tapered, narrow chin, and possibly a widow’s peak.
Brows Recommended: unfortunately, this face shape is the most difficult to fit brows to as you already have all of the focus on your forehead naturally. Generally you’ll want to “lay low” here with a brow that has a low, straight-ish arch, and hugs the brow bone. You can add a slight curve, and will want to make sure brows are always groomed (no bulky strays) but avoid any major shaping or filling in.
6. Diamond: is characterized by appearing to be somewhat short, and is widest in the temples. Typically a diamond face shape will be more angular.
Brows recommended: You’ll want an eyebrow with curves to soften the entire face and reduce the widest part of your face.
Next: Groom & Fill.
Grooming your brows once you’ve found your face shape (read more above).
A few rules to remember:
- Brows should begin at the inner corners of your eyes. Anything past that should go.
- The arch should peak 1/8 inch past the Iris (while looking straight ahead). This is the easiest way to avoid having an arch that is to high or too long & will look most natural.
- Your brows should be thickest from the inner corner to the arch, and should taper thinner past the arch (taper being the key word here).
- To balance eyes that are closer together you should start brows slightly farther apart, for eyes that are farther apart you should start brows closer together.
- Avoid any magnifying mirrors if possible & consistently check your work by taking a step back and looking into the mirror to avoid any overplucking.
- When you’re finished removing hairs use a clean mascara spooley or eyebrow brush to brush hairs upwards, anything sticking up past the rest can be trimmed with nail scissors.
How To Fill Brows Like A Pro: I see this go wrong so many times. The key here is to look as natural as possible, you don’t want brows to be too thin, too thick, too dark, or too light. While they’re are arguably hundreds of ways to fill out brows, here is my way.
*Your brows shouldn’t look like either of these at the end or you will want to start over*
- Pick your poison: The infamous pencil vs. powder debate. Me personally? I’ll use both, either, I’ve found that you really can work with both and it’s all about what you’re comfortable using (many will chose powders because they can look “softer”). The important thing to remember is that you will want both a shade lighter than your natural color and one of your natural color to make brows look effortless. If you do chose pencil make sure to avoid anything super waxy or, worse, shimmery.
- Before you start filling in your eyebrows you will want to blend concealer or subtle highlighter underneath and on top of each brow, giving shadow something to stick to and helping define the surrounding areas.
- Start under the arch: take a small angled brush (or pencil with a light hand) hold horizontally and apply the darker of your shades directly under the arch of your brow as this is the area that defines the entire brow. Naturally light catches this area and makes it appear darker which is why you use the darker color. You may need to reshape your shape slightly if your arch is too high or too rounded.
- Next, using the lighter color define the top of the outer edge & middle of the brow (think of it as lip liner, you’re only creating the outline not filling in).
- Move inward: Now for the trickier part. You’ll need to fill in the inner edge of the brow without looking obvious. Using the lighter color of shadow, turn brush sideways so its perpendicular to your brows (it should be vertical) and fill in starting at the middle of your nostril.
- Lightly fill in any sparse areas with the lighter shade (you can always go darker if needed) so that there are not any visible gaps or bald spots. Generally you’ll want to leave this area as natural as possible as filling it in completely can make your brows look harsh and, well.. filled in!
- Finish with clear (or tinted so long as it’s not too dark) brow gel or spray a mascara spooley with hairspray and run through brow hairs. This will keep thing neat and tidy all day long.
Now your eyebrows are